Revisiting the memory lane of Indian Embroidery through the lens of SUI DHAGA
Indian Cinema has always stand disparate in terms of choosing subject for their movies. From regional movies to Hindi movies, from Tollywood to Bengali Movies, and from social subject to real life inspired movies.
Indian Cinema has always stand disparate in terms of choosing subject for their movies. From regional movies to Hindi movies, from Tollywood to Bengali Movies, and from social subject to real life inspired movies; Indian Cinema always unfolds the diversified subject matter. The phrase ‘UNITY IN DIVERSITY’ that describes India isdepicted in various Bollywood movies. Every state in India deals with their own unique identity that makes them different from each other.
Be its food, culture, traditions, clothes, music, songs, dance, craftsmanship, handicrafts, and embroidery, everything is contrasting, but symbolizes one Nation i.e. INDIA! Even our Prime Minister Narendra Modialso encourages the unique styles of Indian handicrafts.He launched a campaign MAKE IN INDIA, a Swadeshi movement that encourages Indian styles of diversified fields being manufactured in India itself. His main concern behind launching this campaign is to bring Indian styles and unique handicrafts on the forefrontand generate more job formation and encouraging young skills.
The result of this campaign is that India took a big rise in terms of Foreign Direct Investment leaving behind USA and CHINA.Keeping this in mind, director SharatKatariabrought us a movie that is based on the MAKE IN INDIA campaign and that sketches a journey of a man and his wife who brings back the lost embroidery styles of India and rise as a young entrepreneur.
SUI DHAGA is produced under the banner of Yash Raj Films, starring Varun Dhawan and Anushka Sharma in lead roles. Varun is playing a role of a local craftsman whose grandfather was a weaver and they have a rough life after his grandfather died. Recently, the trailer of the movie is launched and with strong storyline, the trailer has so far gained much appreciation from Bollywood industry and audience. The trailer depicts the struggle of a young man who faces odd situations and insult from the higher strata of the society. It is journey from being ‘Unemployed to Employed’- finding one’s identity and doing something extraordinary for one’s own country.
Recently, Varun and Anushka revealed the Logo of SUI DHAGA and it is worth a look. It is for the first time when a Bollywood movie didn’t go for a digital logo, in fact it went onto finding the local craftsman from different states of the India and asked them to make the logo of the movie with the help of their embroidery styles. The team of SUI DHAGA visited various states in India and contacted people who holds the proprietorship of old embroidery styles. The SUI DHAGA team even met people who were not aware about what is logo. All they know is that they are the master of their own embroidery styles!
This is the first time when Varun and Anushka came together for a movie and the unique part is that the logo of the movie is made by the various craftsman and artisans from all over the country. The Logo of SUI DHAGA will take you on a journey towards the craftsmanship of various artisans across the country. Every Indian state has their unique style of embroidering that includes quills, pearls, beads, threads, and sequins. Varun and Anushka are seen in a special video telling about the efforts made by the team members of SUI DHAGA to reach different artisans from different states and asked them to make the logo of the movie.
The marketing team of YRF make sure that every stencil should reach at the right location. The stencil of the SUI DHAGA logo was sent to artisans from Rajasthan, Uttar Pradesh, Odisha, Assam, Tamil Nadu, Gujrat, and various other places. The marketing team went on to door to door to these artisans and requested them to use their own fabric and embroidery styles to make the best logo for the movie promotions. And now you can just imagine that how colourful the logo of the movie must have been! Matan Mehta, Marketing head of YRF said in an interview:
“We reached out to 15 uniquely skilled artists/artist groups across the lengths and breadths of our nation who helped us design our film logo. It has been an exhaustive and most rewarding experience for all of us at YRF. It has taken six months to plan, research and execute our logo in 15 different styles that celebrate our country’s diversity and entrepreneur spirit.”
TODA EMBROIDERY FROM TAMIL NADU:
SUI DHAGA logo wrapped in a different embroidery styles confused Varun and Anushka as to which logo will be the best one for the movie and at last they decided to include each work as the official logo of SUI DHAGA. To celebrate the unique and diverse culture of Indian handicraft, SUI DHAGA marketing team even reached to the old and unknown embroidery style of Tamil Nadu that is done by TODA TRIBE. The tribe is known for their rare style of embroidery locally known as ‘PUKHOOR’. And this was the first time when this tribe was going to use their embroidery style other than on ‘SHAWL’.
KASHIDA & SOZNI OF KASHMIR:
The Stencil of SUI DHAGA logo reached in the hands of KASHMIRI artisans who are masters of KASHIDA and SOZNI. This popular style of needlework embroidery is generally used on woollen rugs, known as Namdahs. The base cloth that is used in this style is either silk, cotton, or wool. In the special video of Varun and Anushka, a Kashmiri artisan says that:
“सुबह सुबह अल्लाह का नाम पुकारते हैं और फिर इसी के साथ हम काम शुरू करते हैं
चाहे कर्फ्यू हो चाहे कुछ भी हो ,घर में बैठते हैं और करते हैं काम”
(“In the morning we call the name of Allah and then with this we start work.
Regardless of whether there is a curfew, sit in the house and do the work)
This is the dedication of Kashmiri artisans when it comes to their work. SOZNI is a challenging style of embroidery that is done on both sides of the silk cloth. Most of the time either red or blue is used in this form of embroidery and often the style is called DORUKHA.
PHULKARI FROM PUNJAB:
Phulkari is one of the oldest forms of embroidery in India. The style has its roots in the evidences from the 16th century embroidery work in Punjab. It is a popular custom in Punjab to gift a Phulkari cloth to their brides. This work is a symbol of bringing happiness and prosperity in the family. Khaddar is the base cloth that is used in this form of embroidery.
RABARI & HEER BHARAT FROM GUJRAT:
हम कंपनियों में क्यों जाये, हम खेतों में क्यों जाये?
हमारी जो कला है वो हमारे लिए हमारी आज़ादी है”
(“Why do we go to companies, why do we go to the fields?
Our art is our freedom for us “)
Kutch district in GUJRAT is known for one of the most beautiful embroideries in India i.e. RABARI & HEER BHARAT. These embroidery designs are rich in motifs and designs. The colourful floral designs and silk as the base material for the embroidery makes this piece of art one of the most alluring embroidery in India. Rabari is a tribe in Kutch district who are exceled in one of the most difficult style of embroidery and that is the reason the design is known as Rabari embroidery. There are several villages near by Kutch district where people are involved in such kinds of embroidery styles. The women in these villages are stick to their own culture and art and they know how to save this old work of art in the form of making clothes, bags, and various other handicrafts materials.
PHOOL PATTI FROM UTTAR PRADESH & ZARDOZI FROM LUCKNOW:
ALIGARH is the hub of PHOOL PATTI embroidery in India. This embroidery holds a complex and very beautiful designs. Earlier, this embroidery was used on cotton clothes, but now, with modern styles and other fabrics, this style has made its place with other fabrics too. You will notice different styles of flowers, petals, and leaves in this embroidery. As the embroidery is based on floral designs so, it is inspired from the natural surroundings and had its ideas from the beauty of flowers.
Technically, Zardozi work has derived from the middle-east countries including Iran, Iraq, Kuwait, and Turkey, but it had its roots even in India. The Mughals bought this embroidery styles to India and since then India has made this work of art as its integral part. Zardozi is a rich style of embroider that is done on silk and velvet fabric. The work includes golden and silver wires that are being melted and pressed first to turn them into a very thin wire and then these wires are used in making different designs.
AARI, BANJARA & GOTA PATTI OF RAJASTHAN:
Gota Patti is a rich embroidery style of Rajasthan that uses thread work. This embroidery is also an expensive work of art as it is used in most of the wedding Lehengas in India. Earlier, this embroidery uses real gold and silver threads, but now it has been replaced by copper wires.
Banjara embroidery is also known as Lambani, Gormati, or Lamans that were used by gypsies in Rajasthan. Still there are nomadic people in Rajasthan who wear clothes that are having Banjara style of embroidery.
Other than these embroidery styles, the Logo of SUI DHAGA is also made up other embroideries styles including, Toda style from Tamil Nadu, Kasuti design from Karnataka, Pipli style from Odisha, Handloom work from Asssam, and Kantha style embroidery from West Bengal. You can see that how the stencil of SUI DHAGA travelled across the India and stitches whole India in one thread! You will be surprised to hear that YRF decided to launch the logo of SUI DHAGA on National Handloom Day. Releasing Logo on this day is a reverence to all the hard-working weavers of India who are gems of our country.